And it’s no different to a Home Theater System. Picking and purchasing a home entertainment center can be a great piece of equipment to own that can bring the whole family together at certain times and provide many hours of entertainment.

That’s what its all about after all. (?)

When you go into your local electronics store, and stick to your guns (budget. )

Be careful when you enter as you will be amazed by the whirlwind of gadgets available and get so easily caught up, eventually this amazement feeling turns you upside down, frustration envelopes your mind, as you blow your budget and end up with a nice (hefty) credit card bill. You know it is easily done.

However if you have an intended budget it is still possible, to stick to it with, and get the bargain in the process. Forewarning: There is a little bit of work in terms of researching but the rewards can be beyond belief in the kind of quality and power of a home theater system and the cost involved.

1. Make several trips to multiple stores or multiple phone calls over the course of a week.

2. Do not spend more money than is necessary, so done make the selecting a home theater system light. Don’t buy on impulse.

3. When at the store really check out the systems you’re really interested in. Bare in mind in the store the system is going to sound fantastic, compare all the systems with the features you are wanting.

4. Keep a listing of all prices and respective models, then go online and check out and compare the prices with your list.

5. Take note of the website and point out this information including price

6. Compare these prices to the local store and try to negotiate with them and see if you can get the same Internet price. You might be surprised at what they might give you. If they don’t give you the price, they might throw in a freebie, such as a DVD player that can be equivalent to the price difference. Summary

The trouble of purchasing items online is unless you know it’s a reputable company you just done really know what you are getting, plus when it comes to components like speakers – what is the real quality, you just don’t know until you listen to them, and you can’t do that online.

Comparing prices, find the lowest possible price can mean the difference of a system within your budget or outside.

Shopping online you should be able to save money over the local stores and usually with free shipping too.

I am going to assume that you already have a surround sound or home theater amplifier or receiver. There are 3 main home theater speaker configurations which you will see termed 5. 1, 6. 1, and 7. 1 channel surround. You will also see mentioned the terms Dolby Digital, DTS, and Dolby Pro-Logic. There are some other formats such as Dolby Digital EX, Dolby Pro-logic IIx, Dolby TrueHD, DTS neo:6. 1, DTS-ES, TrueSurround XT, and undoubtedly more, but they do not need to be addressed separately as the information below is also relevant for them.

Let’s dispense with Dolby Pro-Logic first: if your receiver is only Pro-Logic (only older receivers at this point) you do not need to worry about 6. 1 or 7. 1 surround because your system can’t use the extra speakers. The two factors relevant to our discussion are: 1. how many channels does your system permit, and 2. Do you want to buy that many speakers?

All the receivers that support more than 5. 1 channels will also work fine with a 5. 1 channel setup. Obviously, 7. 1 will provide better surround sound than 5. 1, but at the expense of two extra speakers. If you have a limited budget you will have to decide whether to buy 5. 1 higher quality speakers, or go for cheaper speakers to allow for 7. 1 channels. By the way, the . 1 channel is the home theater subwoofer. The subwoofer is really needed for home theater. A system will work without it, but I don’t recommend going without for home theater. The center channel is also very important for home theater, serving to anchor the sound to the video screen. These are the recommended placements according to Dolby Labs. 5. 1 surround system:

A). Center speaker centered on video source

B). Subwoofer(s) in an arc with the main L & R speakers between speakers and video source

C). L & R front on a 22-30 degree angle from the sitting, on an equidistant arc connecting the center channel and subs

D). L & R surround equidistant and on a 90-110 degree angle from the sitting position 6. 1 surround system:

A). Center speaker centered on video source

B). Subwoofer(s) in arc with the main L & R speakers between speakers and video source

C). L & R front on a 22-30 degree angle from the sitting, on an equidistant arc connecting the center channel and subs

D). L & R surround equidistant and on a 90-110 degree angle from the sitting position

E). Rear center 180 degrees (directly behind) the sitting position 7. 1 surround system:

A). Center speaker centered on video source

B). Subwoofer(s) in arc with the main L & R speakers between speakers and video source

C). L & R front on a 22-30 degree angle from the sitting, on an equidistant arc connecting the center channel and subs

D). L & R surround equidistant and on a 90-110 degree angle from the sitting position

E). L & R rear equidistant and on a 135-150 degree angle from the listening position.

The descriptions above are the specifications for speaker placement according to Dolby Labs. Subwoofer Setup

Your subwoofer may have a switch for Dolby Digital / Pro Logic. If your receiver is only capable of Dolby Pro Logic (only older systems) you need to use the Pro Logic inputs and set the crossover frequency properly to match with your main speakers. You may use an 80 Hz setting and adjust the volume properly for a reasonable output. I will not go into this further as almost all systems are capable of Dolby Digital output. If you have a Dolby Digital capable receiver (assuming you are using the sub for home theater purposes) set the switch to Dolby Digital even if you are using a Pro Logic source. The reason for this is that it allows your home theater receiver to manage the bass output & crossover frequency of the bass information. Your receiver will ensure the proper output to the sub in the case of Dolby Pro Logic source material. If you use the Pro Logic inputs only, Dolby Digital programs may not be reproduced properly. The same goes if you have multiple inputs on your sub. If your input is labeled LFE it is the equivalent of a Dolby Digital input. You want to use the input to the RCA style plug (or plugs) if you are using the subwoofer in a surround system. If you have speaker level binding post inputs, these are almost always for using the subwoofer in a non surround sound speaker setup. Preset the subwoofer level control to about halfway before running the white noise test tone to calibrate your receiver speaker levels. You absolutely must run the test and balance your speaker levels to have the surround system perform properly. Don’t worry about the crossover frequency control on the sub for Dolby Digital or better systems. For Pro Logic set it to the point where bass in your main speakers drops off, (or 80 Hz if you can’t find any info, and adjust from there for best sound) which will require looking at the documentation for your speakers.

If you are not using your sub in a surround system, you may, with advantage, use the speaker level inputs on the back of your sub. If you have relatively small speakers without much bass output this can provide a substantial sound quality advantage. The receiver left and right channels are connected directly to the subwoofer, and the left and right speakers connect to the speaker out connectors on the subwoofer. What this does is allow the sub to produce the low bass that the main speakers can not, which of course the other types of connections would do also. The advantage here is the fact that with the subwoofer connected this way, it filters the bass out of the signal to your main speakers, so they speakers never try to produce the bass that they can’t handle. This results in clearer, cleaner sound and more volume capability from your main speakers. Subwoofer placement is generally as below for other speakers. It is true that bass is omni directional and so you should be able to place a subwoofer anywhere, but as usual this depends on your situation. I play music loud, and can detect where the subwoofer is located by the feel of the vibrations. I find it very distracting to have the bass seem to come from the front of the room, but the vibrations of the bass coming from another direction. I therefore always prefer a subwoofer to the front of the room. The subwoofer should be adjusted in accordance with the setup (pink noise test) procedure of the amplifier it is being used with, if on a surround system. This usually means a crossover point of about 80Hz. If you have a phase switch or knob, set it to the position where the bass sounds the loudest. I also notice that most manufacturers recommend the sub be placed to the front of the room on a horizontal line with the main speakers. (Actually, to make all the speakers an equal distance from the listening position, they would form an arc. ) How to get the most out of your speakers & How to improve your sound quality for no extra money (unless you need speaker cable!)

The first consideration with a new speaker system is placement, and the second is wiring, both of which deserve consideration. We will cover wiring first with some generalities that apply to all kinds of speakers. The placement part will cover in home speakers only. Wiring your speakers

First and foremost, wire selection can be very important. If your speakers are to be installed in-wall, you will need speaker cable rated cl3 or equivalent. If outdoor speakers, you should try to use what is termed a ?direct burial? cable or equivalent.

Next, if you care about the sound quality at all, 22 gauge cable is not recommended. It can be used for very short runs, and is smaller for hiding, but due to resistance you will sacrifice some sound quality. I would recommend 16 gauge wire for most runs, unless you really want to get the best out of your speakers, in which case use 12 gauge or larger. For a long run I would recommend larger than 16 gauge cable. Click here to see our cable article and distance chart. I personally use a good audio quality 12 gauge cable myself, but you will pay more for cable this large. The advantages are better dynamics, and the amplifier can control your speakers better due to low resistance wire. As always, let the price point of your speakers determine the cable. Don’t put expensive cables on cheap speakers, and vice versa. BTW, don’t try to use romex (house wiring) instead of decent quality audio cable. Really, just say no. For so many reasons.

One common question is if fancy cable makes any difference. I must state here that many persons consider the very subject to be so much snake-oil. I personally believe that I can hear some differences, depending on the quality of the associated system. In other words, any hearable differences in cable will be more noticeable in a system with more resolution. Also consider that many listeners not selling cable claim to hear a difference. Consider any double blind tests carefully. I usually can pick holes in the logic behind most of these tests, and point out factors not considered. One perfect example was an amplifier test (by a major audio magazine) that level matched the amps, did a double blind test, and asserted the amps sounded identical, so they recommended that everyone buy the cheaper amp. Here’s the rub: Under their exact conditions, which are not normal listening conditions, the amps sounded the same. Consider this unmentioned idea: The cheaper amp had less power output than the other, and under normal listening conditions, say with loud rock music, and inefficient or difficult to drive speakers would have pooped out before reaching satisfying listening levels, not to mention clipping and distorting from overdriving the amp. One problem with the double blind tests is, in order to be accurate, they have to control every factor in the universe that could affect the results, even unknown factors. The other is, in order to compare everything on an even playing field, they purposely diminish or nullify the differences, then triumphantly proclaim they are all the same. The perfect example from above is level matching at a volume level that does not stress the more easily stressed amp.

Polarity or Phasing of your speakers is very important. This means finding the wire with a stripe or writing on one side, and connecting that wire to either the + (red) or -(black) on the amplifier and the speaker. It does not matter whether the stripe on the wire connects to plus or minus, as long as it is the same at both ends, and on all speakers. I always connect the plus to the stripe, just to be consistent. If you get this wrong you will lose almost all your bass response, and voices will float around instead of being centered when they should be. Home Speaker Placement

Ideal placement for best sound is going to vary with the type of speakers you have, but we can supply some good generalities. Obviously, for a surround system, you have some built in limitations. The center channel needs to go above or below center of your television, (or perhaps centered behind a projection screen) and the left and right front need to go to the left and right front. So on for the rest of the speakers. It should be added at this point that for surround sound placement the ideal is all 3 front speakers an equal distance from the listener. This actually places the front speakers on an arc. It is generally good to put rear surrounds a little higher than ear level so that all listeners get a better chance to hear all the speakers. Leaving aside the obvious details of surround sound, here is how to improve the sound of your system for free.

First, don’t put anything in front of your speakers, and if they are placed in a cabinet make sure that the front of the speaker is even with the front of the cabinet. Also, keep in mind that some speakers such as the rear ported variety perform very poorly in cabinets. Make sure speaker ports, which may be in the front, rear, side or elsewhere, are not blocked. This goes for subwoofers also.

Stability is also important, your speakers need to remain stable at high volume levels. If they move with loud drum beats, your system will be robbed of punch and impact. If you use speaker stands make sure they are stable enough for the size of speakers you have. One quick tip is to use some blu-tack or mortite putty between the speaker and stand to improve the coupling and add stability. Spike on the bottoms of the stands work well for carpeted rooms.

Next, check out the sound of your speakers. Generally, most speakers sound better when aimed directly at the listener, and located at ear height. This is not always the case, however. If the treble or voices sound a little too sharp, then perhaps the speakers will sound better aimed straight out instead of at the listener.

Listen to the bass. Is it boomy, or lacking? If your speakers sound a little boomy, like they are in a barrel, bass response can probably be improved by moving your speakers farther from a wall or corner. If your speakers are too lightweight in bass, they may sound better closer to a wall. Remember not to block any bass ports. If the speaker is rear ported it needs a little space out from the wall and clearance on the sides of the speaker to perform properly.

One little tweak you might try: some speakers sound better with the speaker grills off. Try removing them and see if they sound better. In many cases there will be no noticeable difference, but it costs nothing to try. Other issues:

If your speakers are correctly phased as described above but voices are not sharply locked in location you may have your speakers too far apart. This generally applies to stereo, not surround sound.

If not used on a surround system, the subwoofer crossover point should be adjusted to coincide with the drop off in bass from your main speakers. You may find this listed in your documentation, usually on the order of the -3db point. If your speakers still don’t seem to perform like they should, you should consider whether the amplifier attached to them is up to the task of driving them. There are more issues here than power, especially impedance. An amplifier that has high wattage may drive 8 ohm speakers well, and do very poorly on 4 ohm speakers if the amplifier is not designed for “high current” or rated into 4 ohm speakers. In addition, many amplifier (or receiver, home theater amplifier, etc) manufacturers use various methods to exaggerate the wattage ratings on their amplifiers. The true rating to look for is called the RMS rating, and should be rated into a specific impedance (4 ohm, 8 ohm) etc and at a specific distortion rating. This does not imply that all amplifier & receiver manufacturers that use terms such as a ‘Dynamic Power Rating’ are trying to deceive consumers. In some instances (such as with NAD equipment) such figures can be very meaningful. Just make sure you are comparing apples with apples, and use the RMS rating as a baseline for comparison. If ALL other factors are equal, the one with a higher dynamic power rating can have more punch and impact.

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http://www. smartbuyspeakers. com

Firstly, from a point of view of cost, standard TVs are still cheaper than widescreen TVs, so if you have a restricted budget, this is worthy of consideration. You could perhaps get a good quality standard TV for the price of a budget widescreen model; definitely worth considering for your home theater design. The way the market is going, it will be possible to pick up standard TVs extremely inexpensively soon!

Secondly, there are still plenty of programs that were filmed using standard 4:3 ratio camera equipment. If you have a widescreen TV, you’ll find that you either have to put up with a distorted, stretched image, or you’ll have to set the display up at a 4:3 ratio to show these programs, in which case you are not showing anything on a quarter of the area of your screen. If you mainly watch 4:3 programming, that’s a waste!

Thirdly, width and depth are normally restricted more than height in the average living space. Let’s take a 28″ widescreen TV as an example. The theoretical width of the screen is about 24″, and the theoretical height is about 14″. Into the same width of 24″, you could fit a 30″ standard TV, and the theoretical height of the picture on a 30″ TV is about 18″, giving you one-third extra screen area for your home theater!

What happens when you want to view widescreen programming, though? 16:9 anamorphic programming can be viewed on most modern standard TVs, which reduce the height of the picture, which they can do, as opposed to increasing the width, impossible for a standard TV. The proportions of the picture remain the same. In the above example of a 30″ standard TV, the TV would display a picture of the same size as that of a 28″ widescreen TV! If you think big is beautiful, a standard TV is definitely the way to go for your home theater design.

Of course, style considerations may apply, and you may prefer to go for a widescreen TV because you prefer the way it looks, or because the weight of the TV will be lower than a standard TV with equivalent horizontal size. However, there are still some excellent reasons to consider a standard TV for your home theater design.